01019960701
Dress
Dress
01/01/???? (Earliest/Latest dates)
Classification: "Mother of the Bride" dress
Description:
(A) Bodice: Fitted bodice is fashioned with eight back panels and three shaping darts each side front. It is lined throughout with ecru silk twill. There were 17 stays in garment, 2 are missing. Bodice is fashioned to a point in front as well as back. It has a front closing with 12 hooks & eyes. Moire ecru silk rep panels trim each side of front - 3 1/2" wide at shoulder seams tapering to 3/4" at waist. Panels, which in some areas are appliqued with white silk satin, are embroidered with tacked on threads of apparently twisted thin copper wires in two weights. These are now oxidized and appear black, but would have originally been a copper/gold color. Also incorporated in the embroidery are what appear to be silver beads. Actually they are made of finely coiled "silver" wire cut in various lengths and threaded as beads. There are silver sequins in various sizes which are anchored by either tiny cut steel or glass beads
There are drops each side at seam of rep panel and velvet consistency of 4 small clear beads, then a 3/8" round bead fashioned of the copper wire, and anchored by another clear bead. There are 11 drops on right side and 13 on left. Apparently several are missing. There were drops each side of center front closing, right side is missing. These, which are 6" overall in length consisting of 7 silver 3/4" tear drops threaded in various lengths with small barrel shaped clear glass beads and small round steel beads. These silver tear drop beads are threaded with twisted filaments which in some cases are twisted with flat metal wires.
Garment measures 16 3/4" at center back, plus a 1 1/2" stand-up collar. Collar is of velvet lined with the ecru rep as front panels and turned back to measure 1 1/2". A rope of velvet lined with the ecru rep is twisted at bottom of garment with rosettes of same 2 1/4" each side of center front. Garment is machine made but with beautifully hand-finished inside seams.
1 1/4" wide silk twill band at inside waist measures 26" closed. It has a green stamped label reading: "Rayon 'de D-(?) Russell and Allen, 17, 18, 19 ,20 Old Bond S(?)"
Bottom of garment as well as center fronts are faced with matching silk tissue taffeta.
Puffed three-quarter length sleeves are fashioned of two panels and gathered at shoulders. They measure 9 3/4" at underarm. They too are lined with ecru silk rep. Rope of twisted velvet (no rep) with a rosette on each form hem of sleeves.
There are two eyes on waistband 1 3/4" apart in back by which to secure skirt.
(B) Skirt: The skirt of this purple velvet outfit consists of an underskirt and an overskirt. The underskirt is 51" long at center back and 42" at center front. The bottom circumference is 131" and the waist circumference is 25". The underskirt is mainly of purple silk taffeta. The entire bottom is lined with 3" wide pleated band of the taffeta, which in turn is lined with buckram. Over that layer there is a 4 1/4" wide gathered band of dark ecru (faded rose) taffeta. The bottom of back half of the underskirt has additional layers; 9 1/2" pleated organdy plus 2 1/4" flounce edged with 2 1/2" lace (but right hand half is missing!) and finally a 4 " wide pleated organdy flounce edged with 2 1/2" wide lace. The two side front parts of the underskirt have a 4 3/4" wide pleated velvet band lined with purple cotton fabric, which overlays the purple taffeta. Under the decorated front panel, the purple velvet, lined with purple cotton extends upward 7" from hemline. In the back part of this underskirt is an arrangement to create a bustle appearance: two boned stays - upper one 17" long and the lower one, 5 1/2" down, is 22" long. Both stays are covered with 1" tape that extends on both sides to make ties. Eight inches below the long stay are a pair of tape ties sewn to side seams.
There is a purple velvet overskirt made of 7 panels. Two of these are on each side of front. They flare outward from center front of waistband (where they touch) and overlay the edges of the silk ivory rep and satin panel which is even more conspicuously and elaborately decorated than the bodice! This panel is 24" wide at bottom and narrows to about 9" at the waistline. The overskirt is sewn to underskirt at waistline.
The back closing is of slightly overlapping fabric with large hooks & eyes. In addition, there are two hooks at center back to hold skirt to bodice. The inside of waist is faced with 2 3/4" taffeta band which is gathered at center back, in area of closing.
There are two crossed suspender-like 28" long 3/4" wide grey silk tapes sewn to waistband. These obviously are necessary to keep the heavy skirt from slipping off.
Maker: It has a green stamped label reading: "Rayon 'de D-(?) Russell and Allen, 17, 18, 19 ,20 Old Bond S(?)"
Dates: Worn on 9/9/1891
User: Caroline Boardman Knous
Association: Great-grandmother of Daphne Kellogg
Area of Origin: Town: London, England (?)
Area of Use: Town: Hartford, CT
Condition/Alterations: Good, shows signs of wear
Cross References: SHS 920
Donor: Daphne Kellogg
History: From letter furnished by donor: "Purple Velvet Dress Donated by Daphne B.S. Kellogg"
the purple dress belonged to my great grandmother, Caroline Boardman Knous. She wore it at the wedding of her daughter, Carrie Isabel Knous, my grandmother, to Lewis D. Parker, my grandfather, On Sept. 9, 1891 at Second Congregational Church in Hartford, CT. The wedding service was performed by the groom's father, Rev. Edwin Pond Parker D.D., a well known clergyman, writer, and chaplain of the Connecticut Senate. He was pastor of Second Church for 52 years (1860-1912). One of the original senate chairs was presented to him when the old senate chambers were moved. The chair, given back by my mother, Margery Parker Smith, is now in the restored senate chambers of the Old State House, and bears a brass plaque with his name engraved on it. My great grandmother and my grandparents lived at 633 Prospect Ave. in Hartford and has a summer place in New Lebanon, N.Y.. They traveled back and forth from Hartford to New Lebanon by horse and carriage with their 5 children, servants, dogs, and my mother's pony.
Additional information to go with file on the purple dress and wedding dress:
In going back through family records, I discovered that Rev. Edwin Pond Parker's great grandfather, Matthew Parker, lived in Sharon from 1773 to 1789. He came to Sharon (where he purchased land) from Saybrook, CT, and later moved to Cornwall, VT (his wife, Edith Hanes Parker, was presented "a female slave" at their marriage).
His daughters, Patience and Edith, married, lived, and died in Sharon. Patience married Elias Woodruff and is buried in the "Sharon Burial Grounds."
Daphne B.S. Kellogg
6-15-1997
Detailed description by Francoise Kelz and Sydney-Ann Buchmann. Carrie's wedding dress is also in the SHS collection.
Description:
(A) Bodice: Fitted bodice is fashioned with eight back panels and three shaping darts each side front. It is lined throughout with ecru silk twill. There were 17 stays in garment, 2 are missing. Bodice is fashioned to a point in front as well as back. It has a front closing with 12 hooks & eyes. Moire ecru silk rep panels trim each side of front - 3 1/2" wide at shoulder seams tapering to 3/4" at waist. Panels, which in some areas are appliqued with white silk satin, are embroidered with tacked on threads of apparently twisted thin copper wires in two weights. These are now oxidized and appear black, but would have originally been a copper/gold color. Also incorporated in the embroidery are what appear to be silver beads. Actually they are made of finely coiled "silver" wire cut in various lengths and threaded as beads. There are silver sequins in various sizes which are anchored by either tiny cut steel or glass beads
There are drops each side at seam of rep panel and velvet consistency of 4 small clear beads, then a 3/8" round bead fashioned of the copper wire, and anchored by another clear bead. There are 11 drops on right side and 13 on left. Apparently several are missing. There were drops each side of center front closing, right side is missing. These, which are 6" overall in length consisting of 7 silver 3/4" tear drops threaded in various lengths with small barrel shaped clear glass beads and small round steel beads. These silver tear drop beads are threaded with twisted filaments which in some cases are twisted with flat metal wires.
Garment measures 16 3/4" at center back, plus a 1 1/2" stand-up collar. Collar is of velvet lined with the ecru rep as front panels and turned back to measure 1 1/2". A rope of velvet lined with the ecru rep is twisted at bottom of garment with rosettes of same 2 1/4" each side of center front. Garment is machine made but with beautifully hand-finished inside seams.
1 1/4" wide silk twill band at inside waist measures 26" closed. It has a green stamped label reading: "Rayon 'de D-(?) Russell and Allen, 17, 18, 19 ,20 Old Bond S(?)"
Bottom of garment as well as center fronts are faced with matching silk tissue taffeta.
Puffed three-quarter length sleeves are fashioned of two panels and gathered at shoulders. They measure 9 3/4" at underarm. They too are lined with ecru silk rep. Rope of twisted velvet (no rep) with a rosette on each form hem of sleeves.
There are two eyes on waistband 1 3/4" apart in back by which to secure skirt.
(B) Skirt: The skirt of this purple velvet outfit consists of an underskirt and an overskirt. The underskirt is 51" long at center back and 42" at center front. The bottom circumference is 131" and the waist circumference is 25". The underskirt is mainly of purple silk taffeta. The entire bottom is lined with 3" wide pleated band of the taffeta, which in turn is lined with buckram. Over that layer there is a 4 1/4" wide gathered band of dark ecru (faded rose) taffeta. The bottom of back half of the underskirt has additional layers; 9 1/2" pleated organdy plus 2 1/4" flounce edged with 2 1/2" lace (but right hand half is missing!) and finally a 4 " wide pleated organdy flounce edged with 2 1/2" wide lace. The two side front parts of the underskirt have a 4 3/4" wide pleated velvet band lined with purple cotton fabric, which overlays the purple taffeta. Under the decorated front panel, the purple velvet, lined with purple cotton extends upward 7" from hemline. In the back part of this underskirt is an arrangement to create a bustle appearance: two boned stays - upper one 17" long and the lower one, 5 1/2" down, is 22" long. Both stays are covered with 1" tape that extends on both sides to make ties. Eight inches below the long stay are a pair of tape ties sewn to side seams.
There is a purple velvet overskirt made of 7 panels. Two of these are on each side of front. They flare outward from center front of waistband (where they touch) and overlay the edges of the silk ivory rep and satin panel which is even more conspicuously and elaborately decorated than the bodice! This panel is 24" wide at bottom and narrows to about 9" at the waistline. The overskirt is sewn to underskirt at waistline.
The back closing is of slightly overlapping fabric with large hooks & eyes. In addition, there are two hooks at center back to hold skirt to bodice. The inside of waist is faced with 2 3/4" taffeta band which is gathered at center back, in area of closing.
There are two crossed suspender-like 28" long 3/4" wide grey silk tapes sewn to waistband. These obviously are necessary to keep the heavy skirt from slipping off.
Maker: It has a green stamped label reading: "Rayon 'de D-(?) Russell and Allen, 17, 18, 19 ,20 Old Bond S(?)"
Dates: Worn on 9/9/1891
User: Caroline Boardman Knous
Association: Great-grandmother of Daphne Kellogg
Area of Origin: Town: London, England (?)
Area of Use: Town: Hartford, CT
Condition/Alterations: Good, shows signs of wear
Cross References: SHS 920
Donor: Daphne Kellogg
History: From letter furnished by donor: "Purple Velvet Dress Donated by Daphne B.S. Kellogg"
the purple dress belonged to my great grandmother, Caroline Boardman Knous. She wore it at the wedding of her daughter, Carrie Isabel Knous, my grandmother, to Lewis D. Parker, my grandfather, On Sept. 9, 1891 at Second Congregational Church in Hartford, CT. The wedding service was performed by the groom's father, Rev. Edwin Pond Parker D.D., a well known clergyman, writer, and chaplain of the Connecticut Senate. He was pastor of Second Church for 52 years (1860-1912). One of the original senate chairs was presented to him when the old senate chambers were moved. The chair, given back by my mother, Margery Parker Smith, is now in the restored senate chambers of the Old State House, and bears a brass plaque with his name engraved on it. My great grandmother and my grandparents lived at 633 Prospect Ave. in Hartford and has a summer place in New Lebanon, N.Y.. They traveled back and forth from Hartford to New Lebanon by horse and carriage with their 5 children, servants, dogs, and my mother's pony.
Additional information to go with file on the purple dress and wedding dress:
In going back through family records, I discovered that Rev. Edwin Pond Parker's great grandfather, Matthew Parker, lived in Sharon from 1773 to 1789. He came to Sharon (where he purchased land) from Saybrook, CT, and later moved to Cornwall, VT (his wife, Edith Hanes Parker, was presented "a female slave" at their marriage).
His daughters, Patience and Edith, married, lived, and died in Sharon. Patience married Elias Woodruff and is buried in the "Sharon Burial Grounds."
Daphne B.S. Kellogg
6-15-1997
Detailed description by Francoise Kelz and Sydney-Ann Buchmann. Carrie's wedding dress is also in the SHS collection.
1996.07.01