Theatre Costume - Short Jacket | Garden Plays
1917 – 1925 (Date manufactured/created)
Satin
A short jacket in blue figured silk with stylized florals, clouds reminiscent of Chinese painting, and knot motifs referencing the Chinese tradition of knotting. It is lined with a light blue material of slight weight - likely Chinese silk. Black weighted satin was first used as bias edging. The ending is embroidered with florals in chromatic blue silk thread. The body is embroidered with white flowers with tan stems and moths in an ethereal combination of whites and silver-golds. The jacket is a combination of many traditional Asian garments.
The Madison Garden Plays may have used this for plays such as "Told in a Chinese Garden" or "Mah-Jongg." Both plays, their costumes, and the cast of white actors tried on costumes and caricatures of Asians, falling within the category of American Orientalism.
The jacket is cut in a "T" shape, with a diagonal front closure from the side of the neck to the hip. Scrolls of dense blue embroidery are at both hips. This closure is achieved by frogging and metal buttons with a raised vine motif. The oval neckline (collarless), closure edge, and hem of the garment are edged with dense blue embroidery flanked by two lines of black bias satin. This satin had been weighed and shattered while in use with the Players, as repairs had been begun. Black twill nylon taffeta has replaced the original satin. The repairs are unfinished, as the basting threads remain at the hem. The hem of the garment is slashed at the sides. The sleeves are very wide and sewn closed halfway where the arm emerges. The sleeves are edges with a wide band of light yellow silk, the back of which is embroidered with blue florals and the front of wich is embroidered with a single blue flower.
Condition: Excellent.
L: 21" (front) L: 38" (back)
The Madison Garden Plays may have used this for plays such as "Told in a Chinese Garden" or "Mah-Jongg." Both plays, their costumes, and the cast of white actors tried on costumes and caricatures of Asians, falling within the category of American Orientalism.
The jacket is cut in a "T" shape, with a diagonal front closure from the side of the neck to the hip. Scrolls of dense blue embroidery are at both hips. This closure is achieved by frogging and metal buttons with a raised vine motif. The oval neckline (collarless), closure edge, and hem of the garment are edged with dense blue embroidery flanked by two lines of black bias satin. This satin had been weighed and shattered while in use with the Players, as repairs had been begun. Black twill nylon taffeta has replaced the original satin. The repairs are unfinished, as the basting threads remain at the hem. The hem of the garment is slashed at the sides. The sleeves are very wide and sewn closed halfway where the arm emerges. The sleeves are edges with a wide band of light yellow silk, the back of which is embroidered with blue florals and the front of wich is embroidered with a single blue flower.
Condition: Excellent.
L: 21" (front) L: 38" (back)
2008.52